The first eight weeks shape the rest of a chicken's life. In that time, chicks swap their fluffy down for real feathers, their peeps turn into clucks and their combs start to grow. The right feed at each stage gives them the fuel to make that change and grow into a healthy flock.
Baby Chick Basics
Chicks hatch covered in soft down, not feathers, and can walk within a few hours. They absorb the last of the egg yolk just before hatching. That reserve can carry them through about 24 to 48 hours of shipping, which is why hatcheries can mail day-old chicks.
The yolk is a backup for transport, not a reason to wait. Give chicks water and chick starter as soon as they arrive. Dip each beak into the waterer as you place them in the brooder so they find it right away.
To help them find food, copy what a mother hen does. Scatter some starter on a paper towel on the brooder floor and tap it with your fingertip. Chicks are drawn to the movement and start pecking.
Choosing a Chick Starter
Chick starter is a complete feed made for newly hatched chicks, and it comes in medicated and non-medicated versions.
Medicated Starter
Medicated starter contains a low dose of a coccidiostat (usually amprolium) that helps chicks build resistance to coccidiosis. It isn't needed for chicks vaccinated against coccidiosis. See the difference between medicated and unmedicated chick starter to decide which fits your flock.
Non-Medicated Organic Starter
Non-medicated starter gives chicks complete nutrition without added drugs. It's the right choice for vaccinated chicks, for ducklings and other waterfowl that share a brooder, and for owners raising a certified organic flock, since organic standards don't allow medicated feed. With non-medicated feed, coccidiosis prevention comes from management: keep bedding dry, clean waterers daily and avoid overcrowding.
Why Homemade Feed Falls Short
Scraps and grain mixes can't match the protein, amino acids, vitamins and minerals a growing chick needs. Gaps show up fast in chicks and can cause stunted growth, leg problems or death. A complete starter takes out the guesswork. Our Organic Chick Starter-Grower Crumbles are formulated to cover everything a chick needs from day one.
Week-by-Week Feeding Schedule (0–8 Weeks)
Approximate figures for standard-size chicks; bantams eat less and heavy breeds a bit more. Always watch the chicks: huddling under the heat means they're cold, panting at the edges means they're too hot.
|
Week |
Feed |
Protein |
Daily intake per chick (approx.) |
Brooder temp |
Treats & grit |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0–1 |
Chick starter |
18–20% |
0.3–0.5 oz (10–15 g) |
90–95°F (32–35°C) |
None |
|
2 |
Chick starter |
18–20% |
0.5–0.7 oz (15–20 g) |
85–90°F (29–32°C) |
None |
|
3 |
Chick starter |
18–20% |
0.7–1 oz (20–28 g) |
80–85°F (27–29°C) |
None |
|
4 |
Chick starter |
18–20% |
1–1.2 oz (28–35 g) |
75–80°F (24–27°C) |
Small treats may start; add chick grit the same day |
|
5 |
Chick starter |
18–20% |
1.2–1.5 oz (35–42 g) |
70–75°F (21–24°C) |
Treats under 10% of diet, with grit |
|
6 |
Starter or starter-grower |
18–20% |
1.5–1.8 oz (42–50 g) |
65–70°F (18–21°C), or off if fully feathered |
Treats under 10%, with grit |
|
7–8 |
Starter-grower |
16–18% |
1.8–2.2 oz (50–60 g) |
No heat needed if fully feathered |
Treats under 10%, with grit |
Keep chicks on starter or starter-grower until point of lay at about 18 weeks. Don't give layer feed or oyster shell before then.
Feeding Tips for the First 8 Weeks
- Keep feeders low: Chicks should be able to see and reach the feed easily. Raise the feeder to about back height as they grow so less feed gets scratched out and soiled.
- Offer clean water from day one: Use a chick waterer with a shallow drinking tray to prevent drowning. Add marbles or pebbles to the tray for the first few days, and clean it daily.
- Hold off on treats: Wait until about 4 weeks. Before then, treats fill chicks up and crowd out the balanced starter they need.
- Add chick grit when treats start: Chicks on starter alone don't need grit, because crumbles break down without it. Once they eat anything else, offer chick-size insoluble grit so they can grind it.
- No oyster shell or layer feed until point of lay: The extra calcium can damage young kidneys. Wait until about 18 weeks or the first egg.
Common Health Problems in Chicks
Most early chick problems come down to diet, hygiene or brooder setup. Catching them early makes recovery much more likely.
|
Problem |
Signs |
Common cause |
What to do |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Coccidiosis |
Hunched, fluffed-up chicks; bloody or watery droppings; not eating |
Coccidia parasites spread through damp, dirty bedding |
Call a vet right away for treatment; keep bedding dry and waterers clean |
|
Pasty butt |
Droppings dried over the vent, blocking it |
Stress, chilling or overheating in the first week |
Gently soften and wipe the vent clean with warm water; check brooder temp |
|
Splayed leg |
Legs slide out to the sides; chick can't stand |
Slippery brooder floor, or weakness at hatch |
Hobble the legs together with a soft bandage for a few days; use paper towels or rubber shelf liner, not newspaper |
|
Vitamin E deficiency ("crazy chick disease") |
Wobbly walking; head twisted down, back or to the side |
Low vitamin E or selenium, often from stale or homemade feed |
Give a vitamin E and selenium supplement; some chicks keep a permanent head tilt |
|
Vitamin B1 (thiamine) deficiency |
Can't stand; head pulled back toward the sky ("stargazing") |
Too little thiamine in the diet |
Give a thiamine supplement; most chicks recover quickly |
A complete, fresh chick starter prevents both vitamin deficiencies. Check the milling date on the bag and store feed somewhere cool and dry.
Start Your Chicks Off Right
Nature's Best Organic Feeds comes from a family-owned and operated company in business since 1947, and our organic, non-medicated chick starters give your flock a strong start. Use our store locator to shop our chick feeds in person, or contact our team for feeding advice.
